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Tutorials: Mapping: Complete Beginners' Guide to Embrace

by Kiramin

You already know the most basic steps for making a map in vampire, but you still lack the knowledge of many tools you will need if you want to make a good map. I will cover those tools in this tutorial. To begin, let us start a new map. Remember to save it right away.

Lets make this map a fair sized courtyard, open to the night sky. Instead of using the make hollow tool, I am going to walk you through the process of building it brush by brush. I prefer to do it this way even though it may be a bit slower, because it is usually cleaner and more efficient. Lets make the courtyard 1024 x 1024. So create a brush that is 64 thick just to the left of the -512 y (vertical) grid-line. Make this brush extend an extra 64 units above x (horizontal) 512 and below the x -512 grid-lines.

1. Using Clipping Mode

With the brush selected hit X or press the button. You just turned on clipping mode. You use clipping mode to cut brushes. Click once at the top left corner of your brush, and click again down and to the right 64 units. This should have created a little blue dot labled "1" at your first click and a another blue dot labled "2" at your second. These two points form the line along which your brush will be cut. If you didn't place them correctly, you can move the dots by clicking on them, holding, and dragging. If you miss and click somewhere else, it will create a third dot. This is used for clipping in all three dimensions (three dots for a plane, not a line). I will not be covering 3-point clipping in this tutorial due to its advanced and more complex nature. If you accidently created that third dot, click once more to erase all your dots and create a new "1" dot. Move your two dots around so that your brush looks like the BEFORE image below. When it does, press Q. It should now look like the after image.


BEFORE

AFTER

The yellow outlined piece of the brush is the piece which will be deleted after the brush is clipped. Now we need to clip a similar cut down at the bottom of the brush. Make your first dot at the lower left corner and make your second up and to the right 64 units. Here are those before and after pictures again (but don't hit Q yet):


BEFORE

AFTER

Hmmm... Something isn't quite right here. If you hit Q like I warned you not to, you are probably feeling as stupid as me right now. I deleted the wrong side of my clip. Now I have to go back and create a new brush and clip the top over again. You, on the other hand, have an easier solution. With your clipping points still in place, hold down CTRL while pressing Q. This should switch the side you want to delete, so now the little corner is outlined in yellow. Go ahead and hit Q now.


BEFORE

AFTER

2. Copying and Rotating Brushes

Much better. You should now have a brush with a right side that is exactly 1024 units long, with a top and bottom that slope outwards at 45 degree angles (Before we go any further, turn off clipping by hitting ESCAPE). This is going to be the west wall of our courtyard. I know what you are thinking: "You mean we have to do this tedious clipping thing 3 more times for the other three walls?!" No we don't! This is where we copy the brush and use the rotation tools to make our life easier. To copy brushes, select the brushes you want to copy and hit SPACEBAR. You now have a second identical brush.

Along the tool bar you should see a set of buttons that look like this:
These are the rotation and flip buttons. They are "Flip across X", "Rotate around X", "Flip across Y", "Rotate around Y", "Flip across Z", and "Rotate around Z". Since you want to change your brush's orientation as seen from the top down window, you want to rotate it around the Z axis. So hit the "Rotate around Z" button. This will rotate your brush 90 degrees clockwise around the Z axis. Now move the brush so that the two angled edges fit together in the top-left corner. Like this:

Make a copy of this second brush, rotate the third brush around the Z axis again and fit it against the second brush. Then repeat the process with a fourth brush. You should now have placed all four walls of your courtyard:

3. Resizing Multiple Brushes

Exellent. Wait a second... Take a look at the Z-height window. Those brushes are only 8 units tall! Not a very impossing wall. Lets fix that. You need to select all four brushes. When you have them all selected, use the Z-height window to raise them to 512 in height. Also, lower their bases to -64. Why? So they extend a short ways into where the "ground" is going to be (I will be getting to that in a moment).

Since you happen to have all the walls selected, now would be a great time to pick a texture for them. So load up a texture set from the Textures menu. I chose prague, because I'm going for that dark age castle look. I chose the texture "ctwall1_side" for my walls:

Now, too make the ground. Hit ESCAPE to deselect all the brushes and create a new brush that fills the box formed by the four walls. In the Z-height window, have its base at -64 (lined up with the base of the walls) and its top at 0. Pick a good ground texture for it. I chose "grass1_1_p" for my ground:

We better set the walk flag before we forget. With only the ground brush selected, hit S, check the box labled "walk", and hit ok. Well, whats missing? Oh yeah, the ceiling. You are probably thinking "But wasn't this courtyard going to open to the sky?" Yes, it is. But if you try to run your map like this, you wont see sky when you look up out of the courtyard. You will see what is known in extremely technical game-industry standard terminology as "Hall of Mirrors." Ok, so it isn't that technical. Basically, since there is no brush there, there is nothing for the game to render, so it doesn't render anything. That means that whatever was displayed on that part of the screen wont get drawn over, so as you turn your view, the edges of the walls leave these funky flashing trails that look like a million reflections of one another. Hence... Hall of Mirrors.

4. Making Sky, Fog, and Music

To make the game render the sky, you must create a sky brush and use it to cover the courtyard. So drag a brush that extends over the empty courtyard and all the way to the edges of the walls (make sure to set it right on top of the walls in the Z-height window). You don't have to worry about the texture, because the game wont draw the brush in the conventional way. Hit S as you did with the ground. Instead of setting it to "walk", set it to "sky" and hit OK.

That is only one half of making the sky. The game knows that there is sky above the courtyard, but it doesn't know what that sky looks like. You have to set that in the Scene Editor. Open the Scene Editor by holding down SHIFT and pressing S. The Scene Editor looks like this:

You want to click on the "Sky" tag. At the bottom you will see a little button that says "Set Default Skys". Click it! This will fill in the two fields above with "sky.nod" and "sky.nad". These are the default sky model and animation. There are other skys but I don't know what they are, so if you want something different you will have to figure that one out some other way.

Sky isn't the only thing you set in the Scene Editor. You can also make fog in your map by selecting the "Render" tag. It says in the Embrace documentation that you should only use linear fog. The exponential fog causes problems. So if you want fog, select the linear radio button. A good color for normal fog is gray or white, and you set that by choosing a number between 50 and 255 and filling that in for all three color fields. The higher the number, the whiter the fog. "Distance 1" is the distance at which the fog begins to obscure view and the "Distance 2" is where it completely obscures the view. A light fog would be about 1000 to 10000, a medium fog would be about 800 to 5000, and a dense fog would be about 500 to 2000. The "ZClip Distance" should be set to a bit more than "Distance 2". ZClip tells the game how far away to stop drawing architecture. If the view is completely obscured at 5000 then the game shouldn't have to render anything much further than that, so you should set it to something like 6000.

The one other thing that you could do in the Scene Editor at this time is set the music for your map. The files you specify in the Music Tracks can be found in the Sounds/Music directory and the Ambient Tracks can be found in the Sounds/StereoAmbient directory. I chose "prague_hub2.mp3" for my Music Track and "village_night_amb.mp3" for my Ambient Track (don't forget to set the volume). The EAX setting only works for those machines that support it, but you should always set it because it only takes a couple seconds. You should choose one of the options that best seems to reflect the physical form of the area. For example, the courtyard is surrounded on all sides by walls but open to the air, so I picked AUDITORIUM:

Now would actually be a great time to save, export, and test your map. However, we are going to do the lighting a little differently this time around. When you open up the export options, check the Moon/Sun Light box. This will naturally light your map as if the moon were lighting it (or the sun if you change the color and intesity to make it appear so). You can mess around with the settings, but you don't need to. The default settings create just the right shade of moonlight. Also, check the Ambient Light box. This will make it so the shadows cast by the walls are not pitch black. Set the intensity to about 30 and all three color fields to the same values as the Moon/Sun Light color settings.

When you are done seeing what you have built so far, join me on page 2.

[Table of Contents] Forward to Page 2

 


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